The 2018 Vintage Port is a 60/40 blend of Touriga Franca and Touriga Nacional coming in with 19% alcohol and just 73 grams of residual sugar, an unusually dry Port. That's not the first thing you'll notice here, though. This is intensely aromatic with a heavy overlay of cistus/eucalyptus nuances. Then, it shows exceptional depth and power, seeming tightly wound, very intense in structure and simply gripping on the finish. It finishes stern and dry, with a very slight hint of brandy in the background. A couple of days later, it was still very muscular, a tightly closed fist. This is not exactly in a hedonistic style, but this looks exceptional. It is going to need a little time and patience, though, and it has something to prove in the cellar. Be prepared to cellar it. It will be interesting to see whether it can improve and become more enjoyable to drink, not merely admire. It probably is not the best of the 2018 Ports reviewed this issue, but in many ways, it is the most intriguing, and the price is reasonable. I suspect it will be a Port that will always do best with a food pairing, like certain cheeses. It won't be an easy-sipping wine. It will be released at the end of this year.
Mark Squires for Wine Advocate